Let this dry overnight and then come back and do a second coat. First sand over any rough parts and wipe it down. Then apply another coat of joint compound. Most tutorials online will recommend doing a third coat as well. But for our garage, we decided two was just fine. I can't believe it took us 3 years to get around to this!! It was totally doable and now our garage looks a lot more finished.
Let us know if you have any questions if you do it!! Instagram sneak peeks evanandkatelyn. YouTube all our DIY videos. Patreon if you wanna support us, but no pressure! Pinterest stuff that inspires us. Blog includes tutorials from our pre-YouTube days. Twitter us, in character doses.
Facebook be our friend. What's great about your video is how nicely you two work together. I try my best to keep Wifey away from any of my projects.
She and I would clash like oil and rocket science. Reply 4 years ago. I'm often accused of going overboard, but with a patch that size I would have put backing strips across top and bottom for extra support against cracking over time. A hint - when drawing the lines around the initial cutout, I drive two drywall screws through the new board but not into the corners, and only partway just enough to help it grip the board while I do the tracing.
I wish I found your directions 20 some years sooner! I was renting a house. Which had been raided Do you know how big a hole you can make with a Glock? Having been a secretary for many years I used the "white out" method.
Take left over powdered dust bits, mash them up, color to match current wall color and paste from the edge inward. Use heat gun until dry. Low to the floor means use your imagination. Blood spatter? Bleach and hydrogen peroxide Remove paint to base and again, match color of wall I don't know how well it will hold up or last, but I got my deposit back!
Do keep in mind Evan's concept of a blind nailer in the wall and I humbly suggest 3 of them. Doing blow outs gives you the easiest best finish over time. I watched the Sheet Rock guy make these when we had to make holes for wire pulls in insulated walls, and box mounts.
They always asked us to cut squared if possible and leave it as hinged flap. If you are doing a lot of work in a room and you have time after all the patching is done ,skim the walls before painting a primer and your walls will be awesome. To "sand", soak a big clean rag and rub down the walls, you will have very smooth scratch free walls then prime. Remember to keep rinsing the rag. Also I add plaster powder to my mud before using it in repairs, it sets up much faster, you will loose "pot life" so do small batches.
Some advise. You will miss holes and spots on a wall in bad repair. Do the repairs you see as described, and then prime everything I use oil-based paint because it adheres better. Now you have a uniform color and can see the missed spots.
Fix those, and re-prime over those spots. I'm guessing a long but thin damage section of drywall? I would get the 2ft x 2ft piece of drywall and cut out a section bigger than the damage but keep it square. Score the paper side of the drywall, going through the paper, then you can snap it along that line easily use a straight edge as a guide.
Then hold that new piece up over the damaged section and trace it. Then cut out the damaged section. If there are not studs to attach to, add some wooden strips going across the thin gap by inserting them along the thin section then turning it, then screwing the new wood pieces in via the drywall. Then attach the new drywall via those new strips. Place one piece into the hole, parallel to one of the long sides, so the strip is centered over the drywall edge half is behind the drywall and half is exposed.
Secure the strip with drywall screws driven through the drywall and into the strip. Keep the screws about 1 inch from the drywall edge, and space them about 6 inches apart. Repeat the same process to install the other backing strip along the opposite edge of the hole.
If the hole is more than 10 inches wide, use the method above to frame in the entire opening with lumber strips. Cut a piece of drywall to fit the hole. Position the patch over the hole and secure it to the backing strips with screws. Keep the screws about 1 inch from the edges of the patch and space them 6 inches apart.
Cut strips to length of drywall joint tape using a utility knife. Cover each seam with a strip of joint tape. Overlap the tape strips at the corners. Make sure the tape lies flat, with no wrinkles or bulges. Cover the drywall tape with a thin layer of drywall joint compound, using a 6-inch drywall knife. You should be able to see the mesh through the compound. Let the compound dry. Then scrape the surface with the knife to remove any burrs or clumps.
Apply another thin layer of compound, extending it beyond the edges of the first layer. Use the knife to feather the edges of the wet compound over the surrounding drywall so it gradually tapers to nothing. Let the second layer dry. Then scrape again. Add a third layer. Let the third layer dry. Sand the dried compound with a sanding sponge to smooth the surface. Be careful not to oversand, which would cause the mesh tape to show through. If preferred, wet-sand with a wet-sanding sponge to keep down the amount of dust.
Clean off all sanding dust with a dry rag. Cover the entire patch area with a coat of primer, using a paintbrush. Let the primer dry. Apply two or more coats of paint to match the surrounding area, as needed. Alternatively, if the wall or ceiling could use a new paint job, this is a great time to paint the whole thing, which will further help hide the patch.
Sometimes new paint, even if it is the same color, will appear more vibrant than the existing paint, which may have faded over time. Actively scan device characteristics for identification.
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